Ful Mudammas
Stewed Fava Beans with Lemon and Garlic
Ful mudammas is the morning anchor of the Palestinian table, small brown fava beans simmered until they collapse into a soft, savory stew and then dressed with sharp lemon, plenty of crushed garlic, warm cumin, and a river of good olive oil. Made properly from dried small favas (ful hammam) soaked overnight, the beans turn creamy and rich in a way canned ones rarely match. It is often crowned with chopped tomato, parsley, and a little chili, then scooped up with warm bread alongside olives, fresh vegetables, and hot tea. This is a humble, deeply satisfying dish, distinct from the fresh green fava preparations of spring.
Method
Place the dried fava beans in a large bowl, cover generously with cold water, and soak overnight, 8 to 12 hours. The beans will roughly double in size.
Drain and rinse the beans, then transfer them to a large pot and cover with about 2 inches of fresh water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a low simmer.
Simmer gently, partly covered, until the beans are very tender and creamy inside, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Skim off any foam and top up with hot water as needed to keep them submerged. A pressure cooker will bring them to the same tenderness in about 30 to 40 minutes.
Drain most of the cooking liquid, reserving a little. Using a potato masher or the back of a spoon, mash about half the beans right in the pot, leaving the rest whole so the stew is thick and rustic rather than smooth. Add a splash of the reserved liquid if it seems dry.
Make the dressing by stirring together the lemon juice, crushed garlic, cumin, chopped chili if using, and a good pinch of salt. Fold this into the warm beans and taste, adjusting lemon and salt until it is bright and well seasoned.
Spoon into a shallow bowl and pour the olive oil generously over the top. Scatter with the diced tomato and chopped parsley.
Serve warm with plenty of warm pita or taboon bread, olives, and sliced vegetables for a full breakfast spread.
Cook’s notes
- When time is short, use two 15-oz cans of cooked fava beans. Rinse them, warm through with a splash of water, and mash, then dress and garnish as above.
- Small brown fava beans (ful hammam) are the traditional choice and cook up creamier than the large flat broad beans, so seek them out at Middle Eastern grocers.
- A pinch of baking soda in the soaking or cooking water helps stubborn beans soften faster.
- Ful is happiest with lots of olive oil, so be generous with the final drizzle and let the bread soak it up.
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