Qidreh
Hebron Spiced Rice with Lamb and Chickpeas
Qidreh takes its name from the qidr, the round clay or copper pot in which it has always been cooked, and it belongs above all to Hebron (Al-Khalil) in the southern hills of Palestine. Bone-in lamb, chickpeas, and basmati rice are layered with whole cloves of garlic and warm spices such as cardamom and cinnamon, then moistened with the rich broth from simmering the meat. In the old city the sealed pots were carried to a communal wood-fired oven to bake slowly, and generous spoonfuls of samneh, the local clarified butter, gave the finished rice its deep and unmistakable savor. It is a festive dish, brought out for weddings, for Eid, and for gathering a crowd around one shared platter.
Method
Pat the lamb pieces dry. Warm the olive oil and 2 tablespoons ghee in a large heavy pot over medium-high heat, then brown the lamb on all sides in batches until deeply colored, about 8 minutes per batch.
Return all the lamb to the pot and add the halved onion, the 5 smashed garlic cloves, cardamom pods, cinnamon sticks, bay leaves, cloves, and peppercorns. Stir in the 1 tablespoon seven-spice, turmeric, and 2 teaspoons salt.
Pour in enough water to cover the meat, about 8 cups, and bring to a rolling boil. Skim off the foam that rises to the surface, then lower the heat to a gentle simmer.
Partially cover and simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until the lamb is very tender and pulls easily from the bone. Lift out the lamb pieces and set them aside, then strain the broth and skim the fat from the top. You want about 4 cups of clear broth for the rice.
Heat the 1/4 cup ghee in a wide heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the whole peeled garlic cloves and cook gently, stirring, until they turn pale gold and fragrant, about 4 minutes.
Stir in the chickpeas along with the seven-spice, turmeric, ground cardamom, and coriander, and cook for 2 minutes to toast the spices.
Add the rinsed rice and stir to coat it in the ghee and spices. Nestle the cooked lamb pieces on top, then pour in 4 cups of the hot reserved broth. Taste the liquid and add salt as needed, keeping in mind the rice will absorb it.
Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and let it bubble for 3 to 4 minutes, until the liquid sits just at the level of the rice. Cover tightly, reduce the heat to low, and cook undisturbed for 20 minutes, until the broth is absorbed and the rice is tender.
Turn off the heat and let the pot rest, still covered, for 10 minutes so the grains firm up. Meanwhile, toast the slivered almonds in a dry skillet, or in a little ghee, over medium heat until golden.
Fluff gently and turn the rice out onto a large platter, arranging the lamb and garlic cloves on top. Scatter with the toasted almonds and parsley, and serve hot with plain yogurt on the side.
Cook’s notes
- For the deepest traditional flavor, transfer the assembled pot to a 350 F oven and bake, covered, for about 30 minutes instead of finishing on the stovetop, echoing the wood-fired community ovens of Hebron.
- Dried chickpeas are the classic choice. Soak 1 1/2 cups overnight, then simmer them alongside the lamb until tender before assembling the rice.
- Do not skimp on the ghee or the garlic. The mellow, slightly sweet roasted garlic and the samneh are what give qidreh its signature richness.
- Serve with a simple Arabic salad of chopped cucumber, tomato, and parsley to balance the richness of the rice and lamb.
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