Sumaghiyyeh
Gaza Sumac, Chard and Chickpea Stew
Sumaghiyyeh is the great holiday dish of Gaza City, the kind of pot that is cooked in large batches for Eid and for weddings and then carried out to family, friends, and neighbors. Its whole character comes from a base of ground sumac steeped in hot water, strained, and then whisked together with tahini and a little flour into a tart, silky, deeply savory sauce. That sauce is folded through sauteed chard (silq), chickpeas, dill seed, and hot peppers, with pieces of slow-stewed beef running through it, and the pot is finished with a garlicky chili taqliya fried in olive oil. Gazan cooks reach for the local red tahini made from toasted sesame, which gives the dish its rounded, roasted depth.
Method
Put the ground sumac in a heatproof bowl and pour over the 3 cups boiling water. Stir once, then leave it to steep for about 15 minutes while you brown the meat. The liquid will turn a deep ruby brown.
Pat the beef dry. Warm 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large heavy pot over medium-high heat and brown the beef on all sides in batches until well colored, about 8 minutes per batch. Push the meat aside, add half of the chopped onion, and cook until softened, about 5 minutes.
Return all the beef to the pot and add the cinnamon stick, bay leaf, allspice berries, cardamom pods, and 1 teaspoon salt. Pour in about 6 cups water to cover, bring to a boil, and skim off the foam that rises. Lower the heat, cover partway, and simmer gently for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until the beef is very tender.
Lift out the beef and set it aside. Strain the broth, discard the whole spices, and skim off the fat. Measure out 3 cups of broth for the sauce and reserve the rest.
Wipe out the pot and warm the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the rest of the chopped onion and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the chopped chard in handfuls and cook, stirring, until fully wilted and any liquid has cooked off, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the chickpeas.
Strain the steeped sumac through a fine sieve into a bowl, pressing on the solids, and discard the grounds. Whisk the flour into the cooled sumac liquid until smooth with no lumps, then whisk in the red tahini.
Pour the sumac and tahini mixture and the 3 cups reserved broth into the pot with the chard and chickpeas. Return the beef to the pot. Add the ground dill seed, coriander, and red pepper flakes. Bring to a gentle boil, stirring often, then reduce to medium and cook, stirring frequently so the tahini does not catch, for about 15 minutes, until the sauce thickens to a loose, creamy stew. Taste and adjust salt.
Make the taqliya. Warm the 3 tablespoons olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat, add the mashed garlic and chopped green chili, and fry until fragrant and just golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir the taqliya into the stew and let it cook another 2 to 3 minutes.
Let the sumaghiyyeh rest off the heat for at least 10 minutes so the flavors settle and the sauce sets a little. Serve warm or at room temperature, with plenty of bread for scooping.
Cook’s notes
- For a vegetarian or vegan version, leave out the beef and lean on extra chickpeas (use 3 cups) and a good vegetable stock in place of the broth. The dish holds up well and keeps its tart, tahini-rich character.
- Red tahini, made from toasted sesame, is what gives Gazan sumaghiyyeh its signature depth. If you cannot find it, use regular tahini plus a teaspoon of toasted sesame oil.
- Taste your sumac before steeping. If it is very sharp, start with a little less; the tartness should be bright but not harsh once balanced by the tahini.
- Sumaghiyyeh is often better the next day and is traditionally eaten at room temperature, so it makes an excellent make-ahead dish for a crowd.
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