Knafeh Nabulsiyeh
Sweet Cheese Pastry Soaked in Fragrant Syrup
Knafeh Nabulsiyeh is the pride of the city of Nablus and the most beloved sweet in Palestine, a warm round of stretchy white cheese baked between layers of buttery semolina dough and drenched in fragrant sugar syrup. The top is tinted a deep sunset orange from a little food coloring worked into the ghee, and the whole thing is showered with crushed pistachios while it is still hot. In Nablus it is made in enormous copper trays and cut all day long, served in paper on the spot so the cheese is still soft and pulling. Making it at home takes some care, but the reward is that first bite where the crisp base, the molten cheese, and the sweet ater come together.
Method
Cut the Akkawi and Nabulsi cheeses into slabs about half an inch thick, then place them in a large bowl and cover with cold water. Soak for at least 6 hours, and up to 12, changing the water every hour or two to draw out the salt. Taste a small piece near the end, and once it is only faintly salty, drain well and pat dry.
Make the syrup at least a day ahead so it has time to chill. Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan over medium heat and stir until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a gentle boil, add the lemon juice, and simmer without stirring for about 8 to 10 minutes until slightly thickened and coating the back of a spoon. Take it off the heat, stir in the orange blossom water and rose water, then cool completely and refrigerate. The syrup must be cold when it meets the hot knafeh.
For the dough, whisk together the flour, semolina, powdered milk, cornstarch, and baking powder in a large bowl. Pour in the melted ghee and rub it through with your fingers, then add the lukewarm water a little at a time and knead for 5 to 10 minutes until you have a smooth, soft dough.
Roll the dough out on a sheet of parchment into a thin round about 15 inches across. Heat the oven to 500 F, slide the dough in, then immediately turn the oven off and leave it for 40 to 45 minutes to dry out without browning. Let it cool, break it into pieces, and pulse in a food processor until it is a fine, sandy crumb.
Stir the orange food coloring into the 3 1/2 tablespoons of softened ghee until evenly colored. Brush it thickly over the bottom and sides of a 14-inch round baking pan, which will give the finished knafeh its signature crust and color.
Press about two-thirds of the dough crumb firmly and evenly into the bottom of the pan, building it a little up the sides to hold the cheese. Slice the fresh mozzarella and drained Nabulsi and Akkawi and lay them over the base, then scatter the grated mozzarella on top, leaving a small border. Cover with the remaining dough crumb, pressing gently to seal.
Bake in a 450 F oven for 30 to 35 minutes, until the edges are deep golden and the cheese is bubbling at the sides. Remove the pan and let it settle for 2 minutes.
Place a large serving tray over the pan and, using oven mitts, flip the knafeh out in one confident motion so the orange crust faces up. Return it to the pan or leave it on the tray and give it a final 5 to 10 minutes in the oven if the base needs more color.
While the knafeh is piping hot, pour the cold syrup evenly over the whole surface, starting from the edges and working in. Scatter the crushed pistachios over the top, cut into wedges or squares, and serve at once while the cheese still pulls.
Cook’s notes
- Akkawi and Nabulsi are quite salty from their brine, so the soak is not optional. Undersoaked cheese will make the finished sweet taste salty rather than mellow.
- Cold syrup on hot knafeh is the golden rule. It keeps the base crisp instead of turning it soggy, so always make the ater ahead and chill it.
- If you cannot find Nabulsi or Akkawi, a blend of fresh and low-moisture mozzarella gives you the same soft, stretchy pull.
- Knafeh is best eaten the moment it is made. Reheat leftovers gently in a hot oven or skillet to bring back the crisp base and the melting cheese.
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